Ranjit Tamhankar

Tag: pune

  • Vacation, Travels, Site seeing – Day Trips (Chapter 2)

    Thank you for reading my earlier post (https://thetamhankar.com/?p=4090) where in ‘Chapter 1’ I had described my experiences about few attractions; some may not be known to most. In this next chapter we will explore similar attractions. Let’s go on a trip once again.

    Chapter 2

    Day trip #4 Taljai Tekadi Pune (a.k.a. Taljai Hills)

    Not so far from central Pune, Taljai Tekadi is a hillock developed as a park and wildlife reserve. Though it is a mountain drive (a proper tar road) any and all types of vehicles go up there. One can take a cab and call for one too. Be sure to plan for some sort of a vehicle arrangement as getting a rikshaw to come down from the hill is not so easy. We had to call a uber which took some wait time.

    This place seems to be famous for walking (have numerous trails – we did one of the most travelled one), jogging, running and trekking. There is a large presence of NDA candidates, and defense personnels who train on the hills for physical endurance (the below photo shows the number of stairs they train on. I don’t know how many and neither know where these steps lead to and ends). At the entrance there is a nice little temple of Goddess Taljai after whom the hill is named. This location also offers a nice view (depending on the level of smog..!) of Pune. It has a large area with trees where you can relax and take your bearings before you move ahead.

    I was hoping to see some wild animals on the trail, but there were none. Maybe they come at nighttime or are elsewhere where there is no foot traffic. Inside the forest area at the start of the trail, they have an office and toilets.

    Beware of the mosquitoes. They seem to be in abundance especially during the evening time.

    There are several hawkers just outside the forest entry. You could easily get something to eat and drink that would suit your palate. If you are an outsider, non-Indian, I would caution on what you eat and drink at this location. Especially avoid drinking watery substances made in front of you (as you won’t know the source of water) unless it is bottled.

    Readers can read more about this location at https://punetourism.co.in/taljai-hills-pune

    Infinite stairs at the tekadi

    Day trip #5 Pu La Garden

    Pune-Okayama Friendship Garden (a.k.a. Pu La Deshpande Udyan) inspired by the 300-year-old Koraku-en Garden in Okayama, is one of the largest gardens in Pune located on Sinhagad road. Shinto, Buddhism, and Taoism were used in the creation of different garden styles in order to bring a spiritual sense to the gardens and make them places where people could spend their time in a peaceful way and meditate.

    The entry fee is merely Rs.5.00 per visitor that helps upkeep and maintenance of the garden and its facilities.

    To avoid damages and manage nuisance makers, there are few volunteers/garden employees who are (maybe) scattered around the huge 10 acres premises to watch over. We indeed saw an employee asking a visitor who was deliberately walking on the lawn not to do so. Hence proved. There are enough placards placed all around that says do’s and don’ts. However, who cares…!

    The garden is open all days from 0600hrs to 1030hrs and 1600hrs to 2000hrs.

    Readers can read more about this garden at Pune-Okayama Friendship Garden – Wikipedia

    Top view of the garden from one of the only high points in the garden.
    RECAP- 46th Accessibility check at PU ...

    The garden entry is adjacent to a busy road with a 4-way intersection. As you might have read on my other blog(s), there too is no walk sign nor a walk signal at this junction. Zebra crossings are just for the sake and doesn’t deter the traffic nor helps pedestrians. I would suggest if you were elderly or have walking difficulties, only cross the road few seconds after the signal becomes red as there are many red light jumpers and you don’t want to get caught in them (the good thing is as there is a countdown timer – which displays how long the signal will stay red – you know exactly how much time you have to cross over)

    This garden is excellent for a morning jog, an evening stroll/ walk, or just do nothing but sit on a bench and watch your surroundings. Won’t recommend for a run as it has no straight path anywhere.

    It probably is worth assuming that being a 10 acre well managed garden there would be an abundance of variety of birds. However, if my memory serves me correctly, I didn’t see any. Unless I was there on a wrong day or wrong time. Readers who have experienced this garden can correct me and also write what different species they have seen. I would be very interested to know.

    Though the garden premise is well secured and maintained, you cannot stop who would be visiting the garden with a different objective in mind. While leaving the garden I saw that there was a group of four boys travelling casually behind another group of girls. One of the boys slowly and cautiously tried approaching one of the girls, probably checking and asking her out. From the girl’s behaviour it was clear that she didn’t knew him neither was interested. Still, he was pursuing and did so till the exit where the group of girls stopped at a hawker completely disinterested in the boys. Good thing was the boy gave up and they went their ways.

    To maintain the sanctity of this serene place, no food or drinks (water is fine) are allowed inside the premise. Neither there are any hawkers or food stalls inside the premise. There are certainly few outside the garden gate next to the busy road.

    Day trip #6 Nashik – Tapovan

    While on our way to Nashik, we happen to stumble upon Maharashtra’s tallest statue of Shree Ram. Inaugurated in October 2024, standing at an impressive height of 21.33 meters (70 foot), this statue is located in Ramshrushti Udyan within the Tapovan area of Panchavati, Nashik. The statue is made of fibre-reinforced polymer. As mentioned in the epic Ramayan, Shree Ram spent significant portion of his 14-year exile in the serene forest of Tapovan, thus bringing spiritual significance to this place.

    There are many other smaller attractions in and around Tapovan. These were all walkable. I happen to visit them all in the matter of an hour. Panchavati, RaamKunda, Kaala Ram mandir (built with black stone), Gora Ram mandir, Pandavleni caves, Godavari-Kapila sangam, Sita Gufa (cave)* etc.

    * I would like to make a note here in regard to the mythological site Sita Gufa. It is said that Sita stayed in this cave while in exile. Hence my curiosity piqued. When I walked towards this site to see the Sita Gufa, there was a huge line. Decided not to stand in that big queue and that too when it was sweltering. So, I asked around as to what this site is all about. One of the vendors gave me genuine (I hope so) feedback about this place. He mentioned that this Sita gufa is a man-made attraction and is not the original gufa. The original one is some place somewhere where you can’t go. Not sure how true this is but thought I should share with the readers.

    Once you reach Tapovan, auto rickshaws can take you around to see 10 plus attractions (with a rate card) including the above. Once they see you as a tourist, they will be behind you to consider their ride to visit these attractions. I would say it is not a bad idea to accept such ride if you are unable to walk longer or have less time on hand. However, I have seen that they rush such groups at sites as the sole objective is to finish with one group quickly and grab another. Can’t blame as that’s their source of income for most. Tourism is booming in such sacred places.

    Day trip #7 Nashik – Sula Winery

    The next stop after Tapovan visit was India’s famous Sula Winery (Welcome to Sula Vineyards – India’s Favourite Vineyard).

    The unique climate of Nashik helps in growing different grape varietals, each with its distinct personality. As per the website, Rajeev Samant (CEO) recognised the potential of Nashik for cultivating grapes and so he embarked on the wine making journey – founded Sula Vineyards – with the help of an eminent California winemaker, Kerry Damskey.

    It’s a nice place to enjoy and spend your whole day here provided you are a genuine wine enthusiast, as wine tasting, drinking at the restaurant, and buying wines is what it is all about.

    A virtual taste for the readers…!

    Sula Vineyards, Nashik
    Gat 36/2, Govardhan Village, Gangapur-Savargaon Rd Nashik, Maharashtra 422222

    Visitors can also do a staycation at Sula Vineyards. When I last checked a 3 person Tower Suite was listed at INR 16K, which is dear price for some. But if you want a full immersive experience of the region, I guess this, is it.

    For those who are new to this place, meaning first time visitors, the entry fee is INR 1000.00. It’s not all lost here if one thinks it’s too much to just see the vineyard. Visitors can use this (all of it) money (keep the receipt with you) to buy from the shop. The average price of a wine bottle hovers somewhere around INR 1200 upwards. You can buy glasses, wraps, accessories etc. It also has a big restaurant (I guess you can use this money there too, although I didn’t try so can’t say for sure) for which you need prior booking. When I visited this place, it was booming with people all around, the restaurant was full. Wine tasting experience is a different cost element and also need a prior booking, so you won’t miss.

    Day trip #8 Nashik – Trimbakeshwar

    Trimbakeshwar, located about 28 kilometres from Nashik, Maharashtra, in the town of Trimbak, is one of the most sacred pilgrimage sites in India. It is home to one of the twelve Jyotirlingas dedicated to Lord Shiva and marks the origin of the Godavari River, the second-longest river in India.

    The current temple was built by Peshwa Balaji Baji Rao after it was destroyed by Mughal ruler Aurangzeb.

    Unlike other Jyotirlingas, the one here has three faces representing Lord Brahma, Lord Vishnu, and Lord Mahesh (Shiva). And that’s why this ‘Shri Trimbakeshwar Devasthan’ has utmost importance among others.

    We reached almost around nighttime hoping to get the darshan. However, upon reaching there and walking towards the entry for more than a kilometer, we found out that the general entry would take about 3 to 4 hours to get into. So, we tried our luck with obtaining a VIP pass. Even the VIP pass counter was closed as they had given away all their passes for that day, the next available was at 0530hrs next day. Not wanting to spend those many hours in the general line and not knowing how much actual it will take to get in, we settled on placing ourselves in front of a large digital board that was displaying the gabhara live. They had the live recording of the inner sanctum which we happily accepted, took the darshan and left.

    I managed to take the temple view – see below – from outside (which was allowed).

    The Kusavarta kunda (sacred pond) in the temple premises, built by Shrimant Sardar Raosaheb Parnerkar, who was the Fadnavis of Indore State, is the source of the Godavari River, the second longest river in India.

    It’s a heavily crowded place. So be aware of your surroundings.

    Depending upon which entry you take to get into the premises (there are few and are guarded by the police/ temple administration) you may have to walk a lot. We ended up walking more than a kilometer just to get near the outskirts of the temple as the road goes through hundreds of shops lined up on both sides. The actual temple seems to be lost in that chaos. And take a note, there is hardly any sign that tells you how far you are. Just keep walking. Ask vendors for directions if felt lost. We did the same.

    Finding the counter for VIP pass could be a nightmare. There are no such boards – in line with your eyesight – that would direct you to the counter. However, while looking for one, I found a directional board perched atop a light pole, saying the way. You will find many such boards (looking up obviously) directing you. You would doubt if that’s any true as you won’t see the sign of a VIP pass counter for some time. And suddenly to your bewilderment the signs vanishes. You will see a very strange arrow pointing downwards on a wall saying VIP pass window, but there is none. However, if you circle a bit round the wall, you will find a small little building/room/shop which says VIP counter. Of course, it was closed when I arrived so couldn’t see much neither can guide you from here.

    I would suggest, as previously mentioned, that if you want a darshan try weekdays only and avoid any auspicious day. Even then you will have to be ready to wait in the line for few hours.

    For the interested readers, the twelve jyotirlingas are:

    Day trip #9 – Shani Shingnapur

    This place is famous for Shree Shanidev Temple. This temple is located in Ahmednagar district of Maharashtra and is a world-famous pilgrimage site dedicated to Lord Shani (planet Saturn). It is believed that the deity resides in the temple and actively protect the village. And hence it is said that (which is true in certain degree) there are no doors to any of the homes in this village. At present the homes now have doors but no locks (there is a documentary about this on YouTube). Since it is believed that no one dares to rob anyone in the village, and if anyone tries, they have either returned back the goods or met their fate.

    The village of Shani Shingnapur is famous for its doorless houses and shops. Local residents believe that Lord Shani punishes anyone who attempts to steal, leading to a tradition where homes have only door frames but no actual doors or locks. This faith extends even to local institutions, including a “lock-less” bank.

    For more information search (Shani Shingnapur – Wikipedia) or visit the official website Shri Shaneshwar Devasthan Shanishingnapur

    The deity itself is no humanlike figure nor represent one. Instead, it is a 5.5-foot-tall black stone, installed on an open-air platform, symbolising the deity’s omnipresence.

    The temple premise is architecturally very beautiful (as you may see from the below images), newly renovated (as we were told by our driver a.k.a. tour owner – let’s call him from now Mr. Joshi – that this facility was not there few years ago, one could directly go to the place of the deity), super clean and serene. As it was a weekday there was not much rush.

    Another attraction would be to drink fresh sugarcane juice extracted by the bulls instead of machines. You will see hundreds (might be a little exaggerated, but you know what I mean) of pandals (tents) lined up on roads leading to and away from this village especially adjacent to the highway.

    Shree Shanidev installed on an open-air platform
    These are NavaGraha temples surrounded around a Stambha. A body of water flows besides it.
    Entry to the temple
    The long and beautiful corridor, one for the entry and similar one for the exit (this is newly built)

    This temple has a huge parking of its own. Large tour buses are often parked here. This parking is laced with numerous stores selling offerings and souvenirs.

    *** ALERT ***

    We have experienced this, so I am alerting others. Avoid if possible. When you enter the road – entrance gateway – that leads to the temple you will be lured by vendors who will stand in the middle of the road and stop your vehicle and direct you to their shop saying you can park there for free. Ours met us at one of the entry roads, told us that they have a free parking and we should follow him. It was a single small road, so we initially ignored him and kept on going further. However, he was leading us on his bike and when his shop came close, he stopped in the middle of the road and asked us to enter the particular shop. Not knowing anything about this place (however our tourist guide/driver should have been knowledgeable about these tricks) we blindly followed, just happy that we got to park under the shade away from the sun.

    Then the trick start to unfold. We were initially told that once you park there is a way from backside which will lead us straight to the temple. However, we met a pujari (let’s call him that as I don’t know what to tag him as) who suddenly appeared from his shop desk and greeted us. Then he started asking questions about who we are and started giving us all the necessary information about the mandir and the offering process. We were glad that someone is giving is free information that we never knew about. Then came the twist. The pujari handed each of us (me, my wife and the driver) a basket full of several things which we were expected to offer the deity. No price was discussed at this point. We appeared hypnotised and unknowingly went with the flow. Collected the basket, moved to leave, then there was another small stall selling oil and metal stuff – more offerings non-negotiable. We paid INR 600-900 odd each for this alone.

    Then we asked for the backdoor entry through which we were told we can visit the temple. But there was no such thing. The guy led us back on the road, we travelled few meters and then we saw what we should have seen in first place if we were not robbed off our path. There was the entry to the mandir premise starting with the huge parking area. We all cursed and cursed but controlled as we were now in sacred area. We crossed the parking area, left our shoes at the collection centre, then entered the actual temple premise.

    When we came back to collect our car, we were then asked to pay for the baskets, INR 550 each. We treated all of this as a donation for a good cause and forgot we were duped. Left it to Lord Shani to deal with it.

    These vendors (or their representatives who are employed to lure customers and then get a commission) probably can’t be avoided as they block your road, doesn’t matter which small or large vehicle you are in, ensuring you won’t see the real entry to the free parking made available by the temple, thus don’t get to choose whether to buy the offerings or not. By luring they force you to buy from them. I guess all this is true for new visitors. The one who visits most would know these tricks and hence avoid too.

    **** Next adventure is the 9 days Konkan Trip…..stay tuned

  • India – The Order, the Chaos, and the Coexistence…

    2025 gave me the opportunity to spend an extended period in #India—something I had never experienced before, as my previous visits were typically limited to three weeks at most, often separated by gaps of five years or more. With time on our hands, my wife and I decided to plan a trip during November–December 2025, choosing the cooler months (though it still felt warm to us after living outside India for over two decades). We began the journey with a deep sense of joy—returning to our home country, reconnecting with loved ones, meeting cousins and parents, exploring places we had never visited before, and, of course, indulging in the food—especially the iconic #Vada Pav.

    As part of our usual routine, after landing in #Mumbai and while en route to #Pune, we made a stop at a food mall to savor THE Vada Paav. A modest paav paired with an equally sized vada awaited us, accompanied by a tiny cup of chai-perhaps 20 ml, though I never bothered to measure it. Setting these idiosyncrasies aside, we happily enjoyed our very first Vada Pav upon landing in India.

    Soon after, we found ourselves stuck in traffic in the ghat region. Roadwork-an ever-present reality-combined with a large number of erratically driven trucks to worsen the congestion. Smaller vehicles darting into every available gap only compounded the chaos, turning the slowdown into a full-blown traffic jam. India has changed significantly over the past few decades, largely for the better, and reminding myself of this helped me stay calm-also aided by the fact that I wasn’t the one driving. Eventually, our driver skillfully navigated us out of the mess, and we slowly made our way home, finally arriving around 2:00 a.m.

    Arriving in India (in this case Mumbai airport) makes you quickly realize what you don’t have—your phone connectivity. How do you contact someone who’s come to pick you up, especially when it’s an unfamiliar driver? At the airport, there doesn’t seem to be a straightforward option to purchase a SIM card on the spot-at least none that I could find. One would happily consider opting for a temporary solution until you sort out your longer-term choice. In a digital-first world, the absence of something so basic leaves you feeling unexpectedly handicapped. And this is the case every time you land in India. Curbing the misuse of SIM cards also has a drawback…!

    This post is dedicated to my observations/experiences good and bad while moving around within the state of Maharashtra (India’s richest and 3rd largest state in the Western region)

    So, here’s my take and few observations that could very well be debatable, but of course these thoughts are completely mine and I can have my own opinion. So, let’s dive in.

    Scenario 1: India have gone digital leaps and bounds.

    The Good: All payments are expected to be via a phone through these and many such apps – GPay, UPI, PhonePay. No more or lesser cash transactions. Even small hawkers (bhaajiwala, vada paav wala, paan waala..) have a QR code for receiving payments. I have seen beggars too have one such QR code – you have no change doesn’t matter, pay us by your phone 🙂 – no more excuses. Amazing to see how deep this digitisation have penetrated. Not getting into the pros-and-cons of digitisation for the sake of keeping it simple.

    The Bad: Every citizen is now forced to get a smart phone. Those who never carried one had to buy one, had to learn it or remain dependent on those who know. NRI/Foreigners can’t have this facility as these utilities need Aadhar Card (unique identity card given to every Indian citizen). UPI is only allowed by ICICI and HDFC banks for NRIs. For rest banking institutions you need a local phone number for which you need an Aadhar card and Aadhar card is not mandatory for NRIs.

    The Ugly: Carry tons of cash and not everyone excepts it.

    Scenario 2: BlinkIt

    The Good: In India, you can get what you need—often what you want—within an average of 10 minutes. No exaggeration. Don’t believe it? You have to experience it firsthand. Swiggy and Zomato handle food deliveries, while BlinkIt delivers everything from bottled water to everyday household essentials.

    Naturally, we decided to put this to the test. As my wife was about to take a shower, she realized there was no shampoo. I picked up my brother-in-law’s phone and placed an order for shampoo and conditioner—partly out of necessity, and partly to see if the hype was real. Before my wife even made it into the bathroom, the doorbell rang. There stood a BlinkIt delivery partner, bag in hand, with exactly what we had ordered.

    We were genuinely stunned. The delivery took just 9.25 minutes. It’s an impressive service—especially valuable for the elderly or people with disabilities—showcasing how convenience has been redefined in today’s India.

    Such a model can exist only in markets with a large consumer base willing to pay a premium to avoid everyday inconveniences, and where human resources are readily available. This ecosystem has also created meaningful employment opportunities for Indian youth, offering a constructive path for those who might otherwise remain idle or drift toward less positive directions.

    The Bad: This facility is heavily used by the young generation. I have first had experienced this. This generation is so trigger happy that they don’t get up from their chairs or beds and order freely whatever comes to their mind. Laziness have seeped in.

    There is also a significant risk borne by the delivery riders who bring these items to us within ten minutes. Their primary focus is meeting the delivery deadline, which can encourage erratic riding and unsafe behavior on already congested roads. This pressure increases the likelihood of altercations or accidents, raising important concerns about safety behind the promise of extreme convenience.

    The Ugly: Laziness have encroached households. Obesity is slowly creeping.

    Scenario 3: Infrastructure

    The Good: India’s growth is unmistakable. Enter any city and you’ll see infrastructure projects everywhere, each reflecting the country’s momentum—driving employment, strengthening stability, building resilience, and enhancing connectivity.

    The Bad: The sheer number of infrastructure projects underway brings with it an inevitable downside-more construction zones mean more dust, greater inconvenience, and added chaos on already strained roads. Surfaces deteriorate quickly, potholes appear overnight and often go unattended, and vehicle tyres wear out long before their expected lifespan. While many developed countries also undergo large-scale infrastructure upgrades, the experience for commuters and travelers is markedly different; disruptions there are typically better planned, clearly communicated, and managed in ways that minimize day-to-day hardship.

    The contrast lies not in the absence of construction, but in execution and governance. Effective traffic management, temporary road quality standards, pedestrian safety measures, and accountability mechanisms help reduce inconvenience elsewhere. In India, the pace of development is commendable, but the lack of coordinated planning and consistent maintenance often shifts the burden of progress onto citizens. Growth, when not balanced with execution discipline, can quickly translate into avoidable discomfort.

    This does not diminish the significance of the progress being made—it highlights the opportunity. With better planning, stricter oversight, and a citizen-first approach, India’s infrastructure growth can be both rapid and humane, delivering long-term benefits without imposing unnecessary short-term pain.

    The Ugly: Anyone traveling through these areas is inevitably exposed to vehicle fumes and dust particles from all the road works, often spending long hours stuck in traffic. Over time, this constant exposure takes a toll on physical well-being, affecting overall health and quality of life.

    Scenario 4: Civic Sense

    The Good: Though the civic sense (traffic) is nonexistent – in most cases – Maharashtra has an organised chaos. People seem to support each other. They all seem to have a sixth sense. It’s okay to not signal your turn (left or right) as the vehicle behind knows what you are thinking and manages the nick. No one gets bothered or offended if they are not given their legitimate entry to the road they are turning into. Somehow, they all manage to drive through. Mumbai’s score of civic sense is better and a bit higher than Pune, I must say.

    The Bad: A large number of riders appear indifferent to traffic rules. Only a small fraction of two-wheeler riders wear helmets, despite the mandate having been in place for many years. Zebra crossings are largely ignored, making one wonder why municipalities invest so much effort and paint in marking them when they carry little practical meaning. Pedestrian walk buttons are virtually nonexistent, leaving people to cross roads at their own risk.

    While some areas do have underground subways and overbridges for pedestrians, they are rarely used. In many cases, underground passages have been encroached upon by drug users or drunkards, making commuters hesitant to use them; elsewhere, they are simply closed. Overbridges often require climbing long flights of stairs, and where lifts exist, they are either non-operational or vandalized.

    Footpaths are often missing altogether. Where they do exist, they are rarely usable-frequently taken over by hawkers or, during traffic jams, used by two-wheelers as alternate driving lanes rather than spaces for pedestrians.

    The Ugly: No one seems to care. And those who speak up are quietly pushed aside.

    Note: In my previous blog I have briefly described the plight of traffic in Pune city. Read if not already.

    Concluding with an apt picture which I recently took at one of the crossings in Kothrud, Pune.

    Zebra Crossing – One of the crossings in Kothrud, Pune

    So, after highlighting quite a few shortcomings, it’s only fair to end on a positive-and slightly humorous-note. Despite the chaos, the contradictions, and the daily surprises, India (in this case Maharashtra) has an uncanny way of making things work. Somewhere between the traffic jams, missing footpaths, and ten-minute deliveries, life moves on with remarkable energy and optimism. You may complain, you may shake your head in disbelief, but before you know it, you’re smiling-often over a hot cup of chai or a freshly made Vada Pav-realizing that this beautiful madness is part of what makes India, India.